Here’s a road in St. Gotthard’s pass, Switzerland, built in 1827-30. It was a built up “modern highway,” superior to all country roads at the time. I can’t imagine what the roads were like when Berti Spranger, a Flemish artist in my book, traveled across the Alps in 1575. Recently, I traveled on similar narrow roads in Provence. Many of them were built up over the surrounding landscape and the side drop-offs were very scary. The serpentine paths through the French Grand Canyon were definitely not my favorite!
In 1575, there were no flying coaches, only uncomfortable wagons and carts for the poor, and litter chairs carried by servants for the extremely rich. Berti’s patron, Emperor Rudolf II Habsburg, coveted Albrecht Dürer’s Feast of the Rose Garlands. In 1606, the huge painting crossed the Alps on the shoulders of men and was instantly buried in Rudolf’s Chamber of Curiosities, accessible to only the most important visitors. It can now be seen in the National Gallery in Prague. Well-protected then against all manner of damage, it probably got far better treatment then than most of the mortals, princes and paupers alike!
Even after more than 30 years, Berti remembered his journey with fear.
“The Alps still terrorize my dreams, but we were young and invincible. Winter came early and mudslides blocked the roads with huge boulders. The terrain conquered us and we struggled to survive. Early snow destroyed our shoes, bit our toes with frost, and frayed our britches. My horse was terrified by paths eroded by torrential rains. We struggled through the Brenner Pass to our first stop in Innsbruck, following a group of merchants returning home. I was lucky to be with Hans Mont. How horrible that he was killed later by pirates.“